If you’ve seen any of the James Bond, Kingsman, or Godfather films then you probably have noticed the time and resources that go into the costume designs. To be more specific, a lot of effort goes into creating the tailored suits for each of the key characters because they offer a visual expression of the character’s personality. Although few would deny the cool aesthetics of seeing these slick, custom suits on the big screen, some would say that it’s simply not for their wardrobe. This argument stems from a growing number of reasons like having a limited budget dedicated to clothing, working in an organization with a relaxed dress code, feeling uncomfortable in formal wear, or many other points. Certain suit tailors were noticing these shifting attitudes towards casual wear long before COVID-19 occurred. Statista, a 2007 online portal for statistics on various topics, shows the projected 2.1 billion dollars in 2020 annualized revenue for men’s suits across the country. This shows a clear decline since 2012 where men’s suits made 2.5 billion dollars in annual revenue. With COVID-19 now forcing individuals to work from home, the need to tuck in a dress shirt might seem to have less importance. Brooks Brothers were one of many retail stores that were hit by this new pandemic with a chapter 11 bankruptcy announced on July 8th. Although Brooks Brothers are making efforts to delay rent payment obligations and reduce operational costs, their financial difficulties raise important questions. Where will traditional suits stand in a post-COVID world? How will tailors and men’s fashion experts adapt to more remote offices where there is no strict dress code? To get an understanding on how a menswear business can reorganize and thrive during COVID-19, I spoke with Eric Hartter who is the co founder, designer, and Chief Executive Officer behind HARTTER | MANLY. HARTTER | MANLY is a Dallas menswear business that aims to provide one-of-a-kind designs with timeless yet modern appeals.
Hello Eric, how has everyone at your business been staying inspired and productive during COVID-19?
We have transitioned from a one-on-one appointment experience to a digital offering. Our clients can now auto connect to a zoom link and have a digital appointment instead of an in-person fitting. We have also reorganized all the roles in the company so now people are wearing more hats and taking on different responsibilities. For example, the sales reps aren’t just focusing on trunk shows but also using tools like LinkedIn Lead Generation to reach out to potential clients. Something very inspiring we have heavily invested in is an augmented reality aspect to our website so people can make detailed changes to an outfit and see what it looks like real time. We’re also very excited about our rental business launch for weddings and special events that should happen sometime by the end of 2020. Due to most all events transitioning from 2020 to 2021, we are expecting a large influx once COVID surpasses.
Is there any key lesson to be learned from the decline of Brooks Brothers?
Overall brick and mortar stores are taking a large hit during COVID and any menswear business that can’t adapt its online capabilities will be greatly affected. Even without COVID, brick and mortars are somewhat of a dying industry. I’m seeing this as a growing concern at least for the short-term over the next 3-5 years, but as digital capabilities become more robust we will see people who can put down their phone and build relationships be successful. There’s also an increasing number of male adults caring about detail behind their wardrobe which creates a large issue for large retail stores who focus on what’s easy and cheap to produce.
Will suits need to adapt to a younger generation post-COVID and if so how?
We already primarily deal with a younger bold demographic and the key trend is the need to customize clothing items to their specifications and a growing appreciation of small details. On our website, you can try out and add detailed jacket linings, signature monograms, or even full canvas construction throughout the front of the jacket to extend longevity of your garments. Between the products and numerous options we offer, there are billions of possible combinations. Not everyone wears business wear, so we have focused on building out shoes, belts, bags, and accessories that everyone can appreciate. As always, everything is still first class. Our leather goods are handmade in Spain, which is the leather goods capital of the world.
Are there any common misconceptions or under-appreciated aspects of the suit industry?
The main common misconception of fashion in general is that men are apathetic to their clothing choices. The reality is that although women purchase more clothing items at lower prices, men buy less clothing items but those clothing items are more higher end. This shows that men do make a conscious effort to have a highly valued wardrobe and seek opportunities to customize to their specific needs.
